Monday, October 15, 2007

Fish and chips by the sea




This weekend my Dad was at our apartment in La Zenia, so Jose and I went down there for three days to spend some time with him. On the saturday we went to a village called Bolnuevo in Murcia. An old fishing village that has now been invaded by the English and turned into a holiday spot - like many of the coastal resorts in southern spain.
We went there because it is going to be the nearest beach resort to Dad's new golf apartment (that will be built in the next 18 months). Its developed a lot over the last few years but its still small and got a sleepy feel to it. Salvador - the fisherman in the pictures was telling us all about his life there and how its changed over the years. He was a great character. I asked him what types of fish he caught in the waters off that beach and he had us there for about 20 minutes telling us his life story. Bolnuevo used to have just 60 houses in a line along the front and each housed a fishing family - of which his family was one. He was the oldest son and started fishing with his father at the age of 8. He's now 74. He says there are only four of those original families left now and they just fish for fun these days - as they are all his age or there abouts. He manages to sell some of the fish he catches when the tourists are here - because the restaurants want a lot. In those times he can get about 6 euros per kilo for his catch ......but then in the quiet months he can only get 1 euro per kilo - so he just eats it all himself.
Salvador was a true fisherman - he says he wants to die on that beach and that he has got that beach and those waters in his blood. He doesn't know anything else. He only learnt to read and write when he was 19 and had to go into the army for a year. Before then he could only write his name.
We had fish an dchips and mushy peas in one of the "english pubs" on the front. Not because we are uncultured brits but because it was the only thing open at the time we were looking for something to eat. The fish was amazing though - the biggest I've ever had, totally fresh and freshly battered.
So, if you ever happen to be in Bolnuevo (south of Cartagena) get yourself some fish and chips at the anchor Inn and say hello to Salvador - who is sure to be fiddling with his little boat on the beach.
S xx

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good luck with the bugaboo
x

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